It was about a decade ago when the coffee craze hit Seoul.  Although the caffeinated beverage had been introduced a century earlier, it was often considered a luxury product and was not consumed by common folk until the sixties.  The industry further transformed, however, in 1999 when Starbucks entered the Korean market.  It didn't take long for profiteers to follow suit and before anyone could say "Double Ristretto Venti Non-fat Organic Mocha Frappuccino" the Korean capital had become overrun with a number of domestic and international coffee chains.

Whether the success of the Korean coffee industry was catalyzed by Western cultural influences (read: F•R•I•E•N•D•S) or the nation's need for caffeine (after all, they do work the longest hours in the world), the coffee obsession is here to stay.  Yet, with more than 12,000 coffee shops in a country about the same size as Pennsylvania, there's no doubt that competition is cut throat.  In order to succeed, cafes must work hard to ensure that they stand out from the rest; methods include having a unique concept, producing high quality coffee, or offering exceptional service.

 Still, in a country where change is omnipresent and trends pass as quickly as they came, coffee addicts are often left desiring something new from the industry.

Enter Bici Coffee, a Seoul-based business that promises a fresh and exciting coffee experience to those who are "tired" of the city's mundane and often overcrowded cafes.

Earlier this month, I headed out to Hongdae, Seoul's youth district, to get a taste of Bici Coffee and chat with Jaehun "Michael" Lee, the brains behind the eco-friendly idea.

Passing through groups of tattooed twenty-somethings far cooler than I at 50 Seoul, a pop-up flea market of used clothing, hand crafted accessories, and homemade foods, I found it easy to spot Lee's business.  Bici Coffee, as its name implies, is part bicycle, part coffee bar, and entirely genius.  I was immediately impressed and was not alone; swarms of intrigued shoppers gathered around the bicycle "cafe" for a closer look.

Lee stood behind the counter with a grinder in hand, intently grating a single portion of aromatic beans into a luxuriant powder.  He greeted me and introduced me to his team, Jon Grin and Anthony Balzio, both coffee aficionados, and his wife Jihyeon Eo, the designer of the portable stall.

Lee, who previously worked in entertainment marketing, was inspired to start a bicycle coffee bar after seeing similar ones in other countries.  In October of 2012, he began planning and taking his bike out for trial runs.  Soon after, he met the man who would become Bici Coffee's resident roaster.  Jon Grin, who once worked for Caffe Bene, fell in love with the art of roasting coffee beans and after extensive study, began selling beans from the back of a truck.  By chance, he happened upon Bici Coffee, expressed his interest, befriended Lee, and quickly became an imperative member of the Bici family. 

The team frequents farmers' markets like the one in Gwanghwamun as well as Marche on weekends and can be found near Hongik University on weekdays.  Bici offers a selection of high quality coffee, including hand drip and cold brew, as well as hot chocolate.  Beans are imported from Columbia and Brazil and are freshly roasted before each ride.  Lee was eager to point out that the beans being sold at the market were roasted the day before, noting that, "Freshness is most important."

As Lee and his team continued serving intrigued customers, I couldn't help but notice the surprised looks on their faces as they watched Lee, Jon Grin, and Balzio personally hand drip their beverages.  The novelty of the experience is no doubt a big draw, as is the environment.  "The taste of the coffee depends on the atmosphere," Lee remarked.  "They like it because it's fun."

Not to mention flavorful.  I ordered a cold brew which was served over a few chunks of ice, a perfect option for the warm afternoon.  It was strong and bitter- flavors Koreans favor- and gave me the caffeine buzz I was looking for.

Although Lee and Jon Grin hope to one day open a permanent coffee shop, the two friends have plans to continue to develop Bici to share their passion for coffee and step up the competition in the already fierce industry.

"In order to be the last one standing," Lee remarks, "a coffee shop must be the best.  To be the best, there must be a story.  I want to make a story."

Even though it's only in the beginning stages, Bici Coffee's story is already brewing into one of success.

The team of Bici Coffee (from left to right: Anthony Balzio, Jaehun Lee, and Jon Grin)

For more information about Bici Coffee, including where and when you can find their bicycle coffee bar, follow them on Facebook and on Tumblr.  They will happily respond to your comments and inquiries in English.

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With all the recent media attention suggesting that the Koreas are on the brink of nuclear war, the world might be surprised to learn that the cities dotting the DMZ, or demilitarized zone between the counties, are as peaceful and quiet as ever.  Sure, there are signs of a military presence and a slight eeriness surrounding the remnants of the darker days, but it is perhaps the marked contrast of these very attributes that makes the natural beauty of the region so outstanding.

Cheorwan (철원), a lesser-known destination on the "security tourism" route, is one of these cities.

Last autumn, I traveled there to film an episode of "Top Ten Korea" with Arirang TV.  Because the script was in Korean, I did not know what to expect.  In fact, when I learned that I would be going to the DMZ, I assumed we would be visiting the joint security area where soldiers from both Koreas spend their days staring each other down intently, with little to no real action taking place.  I soon realized upon our arrival to Cheorwan that there was much more to the DMZ that I had ever imagined.

We covered a lot of ground in the one day trip from Seoul.  Below are the highlights of our excursion.

Old Woljeong-ni Station:  Once a stop on the Seoul-Gangwon line, the station, or what is left of it, is now an empty building located on the southern boundary of the DMZ.  Although the building itself is nondescript, the draw of the station is the skeleton of a North Korean transport train that lays just outside its walls.

The train- which was bombed by American forces- is enclosed by a fence adorned with messages of hope.  As we took a walk around the site, we became teary-eyed by some of them obviously written by children. "Let's play together when we are united," one of them read.  "I hope to meet you soon," noted another.

The station is about as geographically close as you can get to the demilitarized zone and is a landmark that makes Korea's tragic past very, very real.  In order to access this area, visitors must have a permit or enter with someone who has a permit (i.e. shuttle bus driver, taxi driver, etc.).

The remains of a former North Korean transport train lie just outside old Woljeong-ni Station.

Messages of hope for reunification can be found throughout Cheorwan city.

The Second Tunnel:  Discovered by South Korean guards in 1975, the second tunnel was built by North Korean forces as a means of infiltrating the South.  It is big enough to accommodate up to 30,000 people and is wide enough for tanks to pass through it.  Fortunately for me, who has some serious claustrophobia issues, we didn't go far into the tunnel.  It was an interesting site, however, and offers an insightful glimpse into one of the world's most mysterious countries.

Descending into Cheorwan's tunnel.

Mine.

Cheorwon Peace Observatory:  For a literal glimpse into North Korea, we took a monorail that offered some amazing views to the Cheorwon Peace Observatory. The observation platform offers panoramic vistas of the DMZ and with the help of on-site binoculars, North Korean checkpoints and guards can be spotted.    Because the DMZ is the only place in the world where no human is allowed to enter, wildlife flourishes within its boundaries and beautiful birds and plants can also be seen.

Though desolate, the vistas of the DMZ and North Korea are worth the trip to the Cheorwan Peace Observatory.

Migratory Birds: Speaking of birds, Cheorwan is located on the migration route of a number of species of birds that fly south during winter, including red-crowned cranes, golden eagles, mallards, and white-fronted geese.  Our camera guys failed in getting any money shots of the birds flying en masse (possibly because it was the beginning of the season) but we still enjoyed watching the cranes wander the fields and take off in flight as the sun set over Cheorwan. There are a number of suggested viewpoints to watch the birds from November to February.

Goseokjung: Of all the places we visited, this one was definitely my favorite. In addition to its beauty, this area that sits on the Hantan River has an amusing history.

It was in the caves of Goseokjung that Lee Kung-jung, or Korea's Robin Hood, as he is sometimes referred to, hid from the guards of the Joseon Dynasty with his organized team of do-gooders.  Lee was often wanted for stealing government property and handing it over to the poor, but didn't seem to let that keep him from doing what he thought was right.

It's easy to understand why Lee chose Goseokjung as his sanctuary: the area is not only shrouded in lush vegetation but the views are breathtaking.  The sight of the vibrant colors of the autumn foliage outlining the emerald river was enough to make me want to stick around and find my own little retreat in the crevices of the rocks and boulders.  As gorgeous as the scenery was in fall, I imagine it's just as beautiful in the spring and summer, when visitors can rent boats and participate in water sports.

Once a hide out for Korea's own Robin Hood, Goseokjung is a stunning area where visitors can enjoy pleasant picnics and water sports.

Despite Cheorwan's tragic past and current military affiliations, there's a tangible hope present there.  It can be found in the written messages of peace scattered throughout the city, in the wildlife that has blossomed in the demilitarized zone despite human conflict, and in the undeviating beauty of nature, which continues to endure through each passing season.

To Get There:  To get to Cheorwan, take an intercity bus from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (Seoul subway line 2, Gangbyeon station) to Dongsong-eup or Sincheorwon. (Estimated travel time: 2hrs 20min).  The city is best explored by car, so it is recommended that you hire a taxi upon your arrival.  However, attractions can be accessed via public transportation; detailed directions to specific destinations in Cheorwan can be found at the Korea Tourism Organization website.


More Info: For more information about the destinations and attractions listed above, visit Cheorwan's official website here.

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While eating breakfast at my hostel in Barcelona last month, a CNN news brief aired declaring that tensions were high and nuclear war was eminent on the Korean peninsula.  A Korean backpacker that I had met earlier that week looked at me and simultaneously, we rolled our eyes, irked by the excessive urgency and seriousness in the reporters' words.  The others in the room, who hailed from all corners of the globe, looked worried and advised us to prolong our stay in Europe rather than return to a country that was in such a hostile state.

The concerned comments didn't end there.  Messages from my friends in America began flooding my inbox with questions regarding my well being and my parents even offered to purchase for me a plane ticket back to Mississippi.

The fact of the matter is that during the situation, I never once considered not going back to Korea.  After living in Seoul for over three years, I have become accustomed to North Korea's endless empty threats and South Korea's apathy toward them. Fortunately, because I was traveling, I also wasn't as exposed to the media's outrageous reports, which were no doubt embellished to expand viewership and increase ratings.

As tragic as it was, the Boston Marathon bombing was the event that eased my family's and friends' fears.  After the bombing, news on North Korea was virtually nonexistent, proving that the threats were not as newsworthy as the media networks made them out to be.  In fact, I'm convinced that stories involving the bombing will continue to be the focus of news reports until another disastrous or fear-invoking event takes place. 

When I returned to Seoul at the end of April, I was not surprised to find the city unchanged.  Walking around downtown, I spotted cheerful children playing, decorations for Buddha's Birthday being hung, and happy couples sipping lattes in cafes.

A gentleman at Gwangjang Market expresses more interest in the latest soap opera than in updates on North Korea. (Photo: Seoul Searching)

Growing up on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi, I'm well accustomed to impending disaster and brewing panic.  Once every few years, a hurricane would sweep through our stretch of coastline, knocking down houses and flooding towns.  I was used to trips to the supermarket to stock up on emergency supplies and waiting hours in line at service stations for gasoline.

The tensions that were manifest during those times were (and are still) nowhere to be found or felt in Korea.

In fact, those who live in Korea might be wondering why I am writing this, as it is indeed old news.  Still, there are a number of people considering moving or traveling to Korea and are wondering, "Is it really safe?"

The answer is yes, it is.

I have traveled to over twenty countries and can assuredly say that of all of the places I've visited, Korea is the safest.  This remains to be true in the midst of the North's threats.  I could go on to elaborate as to why North Korea would never actually make an attempt to engage in warfare with the South, but I think the reasons are obvious enough.  Kim Jong-un might be egotistical and absurd, but he's not stupid, nor is he ready to see the fall of his dear nation.

A number of circulating memes indicate than many netizens are more concerned with mocking Kim Jong-un  than fearing him. (Photo: Gagnamite.com)

But don't take my word for it.  A countless number of unfazed embassies (including the American one in Seoul) have issued notices stating, "...despite current political tensions with North Korea there is no specific information to suggest there are imminent threats to U.S. citizens or facilities in the Republic of Korea (ROK)."  I'll be the first to admit that the American government is far from perfect but I do believe that they would make an effort to advise citizens to leave the country if necessary.

Now, I'm not saying that there are not risks involved in traveling to Korea.  In actuality, there are risks involved in traveling anywhere.  If there weren't, travel insurance agencies would cease to exist.  There are, however, precautions you can take to ensure peace of mind during your trip.  Be sure to notify your country's embassy of your travel plans, and monitor travel warnings and worldwide caution notices.  Again, this should be a habit when traveling to any country, not only Korea.

Fear of empty threats provoked by money-hungry media networks should not deter anyone from experiencing the wonderful food, culture, and attractions South Korea has to offer.  Happy (and safe) travels!

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"Serendipity.  Look for something, find something else, and realize that what you've found is more suited to your needs than what you thought you were looking for." - Lawrence Block

Earlier this week, I felt the need to get out my apartment and take advantage of the beautiful weather.  A friend had told me about a place called Herb Garden in Gyeonggi Province and without doing much research, I made it my destination for the day.

After a late start- the snooze button and I are far too well acquainted these days- I hopped the wrong train.  Twice.  After an hour of transportation mishaps on the ever-complicated Line 1, I had reached northern Seoul and realized that by the time I would reach Herb Island, I'd only have a couple hours to enjoy it before having to return to the city.  So, I threw up my hands, stepped off the train, got my bearings, and exited the station.  I was in store for a day of serendipitous Seoul Searching.

Standing outside Dobongsan Station, I looked around, not sure of where to go.  Although I had heard of the mountain of the same name as the station, I had never been to the area.  Suddenly, a flock of friendly elderly hikers, easily recognizable by their fluorescent trekking attire, emerged from the station.  On a hunch, I followed them past groups of feisty grandfathers playing janggi (Korean chess) and into the biggest concentration of hiking supply stores I've ever seen in my life.  Vendors in portable kiosks sold roasted corn, kimbap, and makgeolli, all essentials for a good hike.

A hiker checks out the wares of a hiking supply vendor on the route to Dobongsan.

Just before I reached the entrance of Bukhansan National Park, I stumbled upon a cluster of sundubu (soft tofu) restaurants.  I later found out that "Sundubu Alley", as this area is often referred to, is a hotspot for foodies, as all of the restaurants in this location make their own tofu daily, ensuring that the dishes served are distinctively fresh.

I ordered a bowl of sundubu jiggae (soft tofu stew) at Dubu Cheonji (두부천지), an unassuming hiker's hangout with a nice patio and friendly servers .  The dish arrived piping hot with generous portions of dubu and shellfish.  The tofu was as soft as silk and very tasty, if not extremely spicy, proving the area's reputation for good food to be true.

Sundubu jiggae, or soft tofu stew, is the perfect pre-hike lunch.

With a full stomach, I entered the park and didn't bother looking at any maps.  Instead, I walked along the paths of colorful lanterns that hung in celebration for Buddha's Birthday into a number of temples that dotted the paths of Dobongsan.  The monks welcomed me with smiles and motioned for me to look around.

Just as I was taking a moment to snap some photos, an air raid siren sounded from the distance.  Although I had heard plenty of these practice sirens before, I wondered if, considering the recent tensions with the North, this might be the real thing.  I quickly shrugged it off, figuring that if it were, I was in a Buddhist temple.  That had to count for something in the afterlife.

 

Lanterns and flowers in full bloom added a great deal of color to the otherwise verdant scenery.

Considering my visit to Dobongsan was a spontaneous one, I was unprepared for any real hiking; I was without proper shoes, clothing, and the obligatory sparkly sunvisor.  Opting not to head up to the peaks, I continued on through flatter terrain, admiring the occasional waterfall and thankful that there were still some cherry blossoms in bloom.  There was even a gentleman playing the saxophone on one of the walking paths, treating my fellow hikers and me to some joyful melodies while we filled up our water bottles with refreshing spring water. I regretted not bringing bug spray, as the gnats were out in full force, despite it being early May.

Along the paths of Dobongsan are taps where you can fill your water bottle with spring water.

I parked it on a boulder under a canopy of trees, enjoying the sounds of birds chirping and water flowing in a nearby stream.  There were very few interruptions but my guess is that would not have been the case had I been there on a weekend. (Read: If you visit any mountain in Korea, it's advisable to go on a weekday, as the crowds can get overwhelming.)

Although I plan on getting to Herb Island eventually, I was glad that fate had brought me to Dobong Mountain.  It was a great excursion to clear my mind and a convenient way to enjoy nature without having to leave Seoul.

To Get There:  Take the Seoul subway to Dobongsan Station (Lines 1 & 7).  From Exit 1, cross the street, take a left, and walk for 200 meters.  Turn right, following the road signs to Bukhansan National Park.  Continue to walk straight for 800 meters (about ten minutes) past the hiking supply stores to reach Sundubu Alley.  The entrance to the park is just a few minutes' walk beyond that.

More Info: For more information, including hours of operation and hiking route suggestions, click here.

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On a warm spring afternoon, Jin Park, a 32 year old Korean citizen, guides me to our destination on Nodeul-seom, a seemingly unremarkable island smack dab in the middle of Seoul's Han River.  Park looks like any other guy his age, donned in cargo pants and a navy hoodie.  Those passing him probably suspect he designs software, works for a company, or, perhaps is still even a student.  It's not until we reach the far end of the island that Park reveals he is quite different than the rest of his city-dwelling peers.  As he takes off his baseball cap and replaces it with a veiled hat, he makes it evident that there is a new subculture emerging in the Korean capital: urban beekeeping.

 

Thirty-two year old Park Jin puts on a hooded suit in preparation for a "hive check-up".

Families farming on Seoul's Nodeul-seom..

It wasn't my first time seeing Nodeul-seom.  I had frequently crossed the Hangang Bridge while living in Sangdo-dong and often wondered what this small island surrounded by high-rises was used for.  As it turns out, Nodeul-seom is a government-funded, green-friendly initiative that is part free farm, part sledding grounds, depending on the season.  Unfortunately, it seems that most people are unaware of its existence, as it is not being used as much as the government assumed it would be.  Others might not blame its lack of success on unawareness but rather on disinterest, suggesting residents of the city would rather spend their time in the comfort of their modern living rooms or shopping in the capital's many department stores.

Still, on this spring day, the faint sound of a collective buzzing adds a sense of hope to the Nodeul-seom initiative.

The urban beekeeping trend that has taken the world by storm is now taking hold in Korea, and Jin Park and his fellow members of Urban Bees Seoul, a recently established ecological cooperative, are doing their part to ensure that it is properly developed.  Following the lead of the Seoul Metropolitan City Government's implementation of a hive site last year on the roof of Seoul City Hall, UBS is working hard to maintain three additional sites, including the one on Nodeul-seom.

I joined Park during the co-op's most recent weekly "hive check-up."

Urban beekeeping is a budding subculture in Korea's cities

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Facing my fear of bees (most likely induced by watching My Girl too many times), I ease closer and closer to the site to get a better view of the hive.  Park works calmly, using fluid and slow movements to examine the hives for wax, pollen, and honey and to remove drone (male) eggs to increase the productivity of the worker (female) honeybees.  Although an increased productivity yields more honey, this is not the objective of Urban Bees Seoul.  In fact, Park tells me that because there are currently only a few sites, honey production is still low and they are not yet selling it commercially.

"We eat the honey and share it with our friends and families.  We also have plans to use it to make honey beer and honey ice cream," Park informs me. 

In addition to culinary enterprises, Urban Bees Seoul offers candle-making classes using wax produced by their urban bees.  They are also generating a great interest in urban beekeeping through their educational classes in which they inform the general public about the lives of bees, the outstanding importance of honeybees to our world, and the how-to's of starting an urban hive.

Urban Bees Seoul uses the wax produced by their honeybees in candle-making classes, which are generating interest in urban agriculture amongst younger generations.

Even more interesting than the projects themselves are the people getting involved.  The majority of participants, like Park, are young twenty- and thirty-somethings eager to bring a bit of the Korean countryside to the city.

Park, born in a small town in Jeollabuk Province, grew up playing on the farms of his friends and neighbors.  Shortly after moving to Seoul to commence his studies at Chung-Ang University, homesickness for the comforts of the countryside set in.  He began to seek new ways of incorporating rural culture into his new city life.  Now, he works as a horticultural specialist, active in the movement of urban farming and beekeeping.

"Many people in [Seoul] want a rural life, but they have to work in the city.  So, this life is another way," Park states as he carefully closes a hive after a successful checkup, ignoring the sting of a stray bee. "Urban farming and urban beekeeping refresh our lives... and it's fun."

Park works comfortably and happily in the company of honeybees.

There has been recent concern, however, about the future of Korea's agricultural industry as young Koreans continue to leave behind their small towns for corporate jobs and better economical opportunities in bigger cities. 

Still, these worries seem to be unwarranted as younger generations are becoming interested in these necessary urban movements.  Korea can rest assured knowing that it's future is in good hands, as Park and the rest of Urban Bees Seoul continue to create a "buzz" about urban agriculture and work diligently to ensure than urban beekeeping flourishes on the Korean peninsula.

To get involved or learn more about Urban Bees Seoul, check out their Facebook page or follow them on Twitter.

Many thanks to Jin Park and Urban Bees Seoul for inviting me to their meeting and giving me a glimpse into this fascinating cultural movement.

Words and pictures by Mimsie Ladner of Seoul Searching.

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New beginnings are always exciting, if not a bit scary.

For those of you that follow Seoul Searching on Facebook, you know that I have been traveling for the past month and a half in Spain and Morocco.  It was a phenomenal trip marked by friendly people, beautiful scenery, interesting culture, and lots and lots of good food.  I traveled without worry and without haste so I could fully enjoy my vacation, which was a new, refreshing way of traveling for me.  The end of my trip was bittersweet; I would have loved to have stayed longer and explored more, but I knew that getting back to Korea was a priority.

I’ve been back on the peninsula for just over a week now and have to admit it feels a bit strange, mostly because I am returning with completely different reasons for being here.  This time, there was no job recruiter to meet me at the airport with a name card, no school staff member to explain the appliances in my apartment, and no co-workers or students to greet me with open arms.  This time, I am not returning to Korea as an English teacher.   

Over the past few years, I struggled in figuring out the next step and have been racking my brain for a potential life plan only to be unsatisfied with my decisions.  As it turns out, I had been paving a career path for myself during this time without even knowing it.   

Since I started Seoul Searching, I have subconsciously come to realize what I enjoy most: sharing Korea with the rest of the world.  It was only recently that I realized I could use the skills and knowledge I gained through blogging as points on a resume for my just-realized dream job: tourism marketing.

Although the details are still somewhat fuzzy, I will be focusing my efforts over the next year or so to expand and improve my skills to market destinations (specifically those around Korea) to locate a job that will allow me to continue to do what I love doing.  One of these efforts includes learning the Korean language.  In June, I will begin my studies at Sogang University to improve my language skills so that I may better understand Korean culture, more easily find the hidden gems of the country, and fluently communicate with all those  influential folks in the tourism industry.

 

My future school, Sogang University.

I also have a few business projects and potential partnerships that I am developing which I hope to be able to share with all of you sooner than later.  Fingers crossed for their coming to fruition.

One group that I'm thrilled to be working more closely with is Makgeolli Mamas and Papas.  I have come to love makgeolli, a traditional rice-based Korean alcohol, and firmly believe in its potential to become a culinary trend throughout the world.  MMP has already done amazing things to educate the public about makgeolli culture and I'm confident it will continue to grow and become more influential as it does.  Keep an eye on the MMP site for an upcoming blogging segment about hidden makgeolli bars that will be written by yours truly.

Last but not least, I will be focusing on Seoul Searching.  I appreciate the continued support of you, the readers, in helping me to realize my goals and dreams and would have not been able to do it without you.  I know I’m not as consistent or as organized or as well-spoken as other bloggers out there, but you're still reading, and for that I'm forever grateful.  

Although unemployment has its cons, I plan on using the extra free time to produce more articles about life, travel, and culture in Korea and I encourage suggestions and comments to make Seoul Searching the best it can be.

I don't expect the nervousness brought on by this risky jump to subside anytime soon.  Still, I'm optimistic about this upcoming year and I couldn't be happier to have you all with me as I make this transition.

Stay tuned!

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There's no question that Seoul is a city for art lovers.  From internationally renowned museums to obscure independent galleries, there's a space dedicated to just about every genre and medium of visual art.  But it's not only in galleries that masterpieces can be found in the Korean capital. 

Urban art, also known as street art, is becomming more common throughout university neighborhoods like Hongdae and Shinchon.  Many of the murals that can be found in these areas are expressive and offer insight into Korean culture.  Still, few of these art spaces are as unique and aesthetic as those in Naksan Park in northern Seoul.

Nak Mountain, or Naksan, was one of the mountains that guarded the eastern boundary of Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty.  Much of the mountain was demolished during Japanese rule and later became a residential area for the working class of Seoul.  By the 1970s, factories and shacks began to pop up throughout the area, turning it into nothing more than an eyesore.  Fortunately enough, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism recognized the potential of the neighborhoods surronding Naksan and began efforts in 2006 to transform them into cultural art spaces.

I took advatage of the recent warmer temperatures and headed up to Naksan Park last weekend to get a breath of fresh air, after having hibernated indoors for the past few months.  There were a number of maps posted on the routes leading up to the park, but I found that the best way to see the area was by wandering aimlessly.

Along the streets that wind through the somewhat still-dilapitated homes are a collection of art instillations, sculptures, murals, and signboards created by over seventy different artists.  There were some rather creative pieces strewn throughout the park's footpaths, and while some of them were in plain sight, I found delight in noticing the more obscure ones that required a bit of effort to find.  I particularly liked the sculptures that looked out over the city.  Their silouhettes set against the skyline of Seoul was art within art... really something to see.

Although the beautification efforts have brightened up the area, it is obvious that the neighborhood is still a bit run down.  I, however, find this aspect about Naksan (and adjacant Ihwa-dong) charming.  While walking through the streets, I imagined that what I was seeing was what Seoul must have looked like during the 70s.  Power lines criss-crossed dangerously from one house to another.  Kimchi pots sat on chipped tiled rooves.  Toothless grandmothers haggled over the price of a bunch of garlic.  Yes, this was the real Seoul, with a touch of modern urban art.

After getting my fill of street art, I claimed a spot on the Seoul Fortress Wall and hung out there for a while, taking in the hazy but breathtaking views of the city.  Who knew that fresh air could be had right in the middle of Seoul?

A trip to Naksan is many things.  A getaway from the hustle and bustle of Seoul.  An open-air urban art experience.  And, best of all, a trip back in time. 

To Get There:  From Hyehwa Station (Seoul Subway Line 4, Exit 2), go straight for 200 meters.  Turn left onto Dongsung-gil Street.  Walk straight for about another 200 meters until you reach the Lock Museum.  Follow the mural for 50 meters and turn right onto Naksan Gongson-gil Street.  Walk straight up the hill to Naksan Park.  [There are many signs that will point you in the right direction.]

All photos and words by Mimsie Ladner of Seoul Searching.

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